Your Tips
Read what other riders have to say. We've collected tips
and stories, by riders for riders, on topics such as
specific riding skills, protective clothing, maintaining
your bike and more.
We also want to hear from you – share your riding
experiences with us and win.
Submit a Tip
Write for us and win a new pair of gloves!
Do you have years of riding experience? Got some great safety tips? Feel you've got the knowledge that would help other riders stay safe?
We'd like to hear from you. Send your experiences, safety tips or useful information to us. Every quarter, we'll be awarding the best tips with a new pair of protective riding gloves and publishing the tips on this site.
You can enter your piece in the field below, or attach a Word document of your submission. Only your name and suburb/town will be published on this site - other details will not be published.
Guidelines for acceptance:
• Submissions must be less than 500 words
• They must be positive and constructive and related to road safety
• We reserve the right to edit submissions for brevity
• You agree to assign to the TAC all of your intellectual property rights (including copyright) in the material submitted to the TAC, (as set out in the Conditions of Entry).
Ride Smart CD Rom
It doesn't hurt to tune up your riding skills
To make it easy we've created a free Ride Smart CD Rom full of exercises to keep you sharp on the roads. Designed by experienced motorcycle trainers and instructional design experts, the disc provides training on a range of crucial riding skills like hazard perception and decision making. The CD Rom consists of 102 exercises and can be completed over several sessions.
Ride Smart is especially useful for new riders, but can also be valuable to more experienced riders who want to brush up on their skills. The tutorials will take you through many different riding locations: around town, on the freeway and in rural areas. You'll need to make decisions, test your memory as well as your ability to predict what other road users might do next. You'll see what happens when you take risks, or don't concentrate and, just like everyday life, you'll also have to deal with other people's mistakes.
Ride Smart is free, so if you hold a Victorian motorcycle permit or licence simply complete the form below to receive your copy.
Ride Smart, look smart
Once you complete Ride Smart, you'll have the chance to win great prizes. Every three months we give away four $200 vouchers to spend on selected protective gear. Simply click the registration button after finishing all the exercises and follow the prompts. For the latest competition information, view the Terms and Conditions (PDF, 38k).
Troubleshooting
Please note: to use the Ride Smart CD ROM you will need the following system requirements:
64MB or higher; x4 speed CD-ROM or higher;
Sound Card and speakers; Screen resolution of 800 x 600,
16 bit; Microphone; IE 5 or higher; Netscape 4, Safari or higher
PC - Pentium 2 or higher; Windows XP or 2000;
Macintosh - Macintosh G3 or higher; Mac OSX 10.2.2 or higher
Having problems with the CD Rom? View our Troubleshooting file (PDF, 45k) for assistance.
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Love your tyres!!
By Ian Gains of Keilor Park
No matter what type, make, and weight of motorcycle you choose to ride - they ALL have one thing in common. Namely there are two often neglected black rubber thingies (one on each wheel) that are the only things keeping your backside off the tarmac.
OK, so most of the time tyres aren't particularly sexy, but nothing else has a greater effect on the handling, performance & safety of your bike. I'm fanatical about tyres, as I want my bikes to 'feel' the same way every time I ride them, & I'm not keen on unwanted surprises.
I would urge ALL of you to spend 2 minutes checking your tyres BEFORE you start any ride, even if you are just nipping up to the shops, or around to a mate's.
It's not hard - buy a good quality tyre pressure gauge that will show up the slightest change in the pressure of your tyres - the 1st tell-tale sign that maybe there is a small nail etc in the tread or sidewall of the tyre, or that the tyre valve is leaking. Spin the wheels around, looking for embedded objects, as sooner or later you WILL find one! Better to find it before you set off, than to return to a bike with a flat tyre hours later.
Accept that your safety is YOUR responsibility first & foremost, & apply it to every aspect of your biking experience. You'll be rewarded with years of pleasure & mateship from your passion.
If you think that this is too much trouble, maybe consider using public transport before you hurt yourself or another road user.
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Problems with Tyre Pressure
By Murray Grave of Warrnambool
It became painfully obvious to me after developing difficulty with cornering that it was essential to keep a check on my bike's tyre pressures. I must admit I did not like the sensation of less than adequate control of my bike and I found it most disturbing.
The lesson I was to learn occurred when I was going to work one day. I was doing a right hand turn and found myself having great difficulty maintaining a correct line in the turn. The road surface was adequate. I found that the bike wanted to drift to the left and I nearly ended up in the gutter. An experience which was most disturbing.
Keep a regular check on your tyre pressure.
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Tyre Pressure
By Dennis Nichols of Taylors Hill
Tyre pressures have a major effect on a bike's handling. Most bikes run around the 40psi mark and say a 5psi drop can reduce the handling of your bike somewhat. Instead of making a choir out of it just check when you fill up. Having your tyres inflated to the correct pressure will help you in an emergency situation.
[Ed's note: Make sure your tyres are cold when you check pressure, so head to the service station closest to home to check pressure before embarking on a ride. And check that your tyres have legal tread depth when you check the pressure.]
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Check Tyres When Cold
By Jason Sonneman of Kyneton
Most motorcycle manufacturers recommend checking tyre pressures when the tyres are cold.
Tyre pressures typically increase as a tyre warms up. Therefore, if you were to check the pressures when the tyres are warm, then the actual tyre pressure is actually likely to be less than that specified by the manufacturer. Depending upon the model of bike, and how it is ridden, this may actually contribute to an increased risk of accident.
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Anticipate the error
By Robert Camilleri of Pascoe Vale South
I have driven motor cars for more than ten years and recently got my motorcycle licence. The experience of driving a car has over this short time of riding a bike has saved my life on many occasions. Specifically because I can anticipate car driver error from my own car driving habits, and have an understanding of blind spots I'm able to think like a car driver.
One such example is that when driving down quiet streets, I have a habit of slowing down at crossroads to give myself extra braking distance for other drivers who fail to stop at stop signs. I have brought this habit to riding a bike as well. The advantage on a bike is that you can see the crossroads and down side streets from your bike position better than car drivers.
I have seen many cars before they have seen me on my bike, and because of my slowing down habit on approach, have avoided collisions when vehicles have failed to stop or stop completely at the side street stop sign to give way to traffic...me! Think like a driver and anticipate their errors.
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Keeping in the line of sight
By Leigh Marriner of Grovedale
Often accidents between motorcycles and other vehicles are the result of the other driver simply not seeing the motorcyclist. Usually the comment "he came out of nowhere" is heard. However we do come from somewhere and it may have been from beyond that driver's line of sight.
To minimise risk I always ask myself: Am I within the other driver's line of sight?
When approaching intersections I look for the vehicle which is the greatest threat to myself. This will be the vehicle which is able to enter the intersection into my path.
I think of his position and what would or could obstruct his view of myself. A common obstruction is vehicles in front of you, particularly if they are executing a turn. To counter this, decrease your speed to create a much larger gap between yourself and the vehicle in front. This will keep the other driver's line of sight clearer. If you follow too closely you will be hidden from other vehicles' lines of sight by the vehicle you’re effectively tailgating. If other vehicles enter the intersection you will have very little time to react.
Another common obstruction is parked cars. Another vehicle waiting to enter an intersection may have their view impaired by parked cars, which you are hidden behind. Because motorcyclists only make up a small percentage of road users, other drivers will most likely be watching out for another car or truck (usually drivers look for something similar in size or bigger than their own vehicle).
So never assume that this vehicle will have seen you as motorcyclists are not as easily seen. Once again reduce speed on approaching the intersection and change your road position to either the left hand wheel track or the right hand wheel track (whichever is furthest away from the parked cars) this will position you better within the driver's line of sight and can prevent the other vehicle from entering the intersection into your path.
Those are just a couple of examples. The important thing to remember is to always ask yourself while riding: am I within other drivers' lines of sight? It will open your eyes to a number of risk factors that you may not have otherwise been conscious of. Happy Riding Everyone.
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The motorcycle goes where you're looking
By Matthew Esse of Melbourne
The idea that your motorcycle will go where you're looking is merely a shorthand way of thinking about a phenomenon that virtually all drivers (of any kind of vehicle) have experienced before: that if you turn your head you tend to steer in the direction you're looking.
In fact, it might be clearer to simply acknowledge that it is hard to steer in any direction other than the one you are looking at. All of your prior experience has taught you how to steer your vehicle where you want it to go. So, if you look where you want to go, you kick in all that prior experience and automatically steer in that direction.
There is no magic here nor is there a hidden law of physics involved. Your bike (or automobile) tends to go in the direction you are looking because, via experience, you have taught yourself to steer, more or less subconsciously.
To take advantage of that phenomenon you merely need to actively look in the direction you want to go - away from danger. The rest is virtually subconscious reaction. Of course it takes more than a turn of your eyes or even your head. You still need to steer away from danger. Since it is hard to steer away from what you're looking at, and easy (almost automatic) to steer in the direction you are looking, surely it makes sense to look where you want to go.
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Slow down and think
By Matthew Kuliman of Craigieburn
All riders feel the urge to go fast at one stage or another and some may have the skills to go fast but no one has the ability to see around the corner or control another driver actions.
So beware: it will hurt you a lot more than them!
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Rule of Thumb
By Stephen Lovatt of Lynbrook
My tip is very simple and applies to all people using the road. If you have time to hesitate about doing something then you don't have enough time to do it.
We have all been in that position where we think "can I...". If you have to make a call like that, then you already know it's going to be close. So don't do it.
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Wet tar seals
By Taner Riffat of Vermont
Watch out for tar seals over road cracks in the wet. These tar seals look like shiny black snakes and some roads are littered with them.
In the wet these tar seals are extremely slippery, and even on a straight road can cause your bike to slide all over the place.
The only solution is to slow down and try and miss as many as possible by gently weaving between them - they are so slippery in the wet.
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Lawn mowers - Ordinary Stuff can hit you
By David Turnbull of Kilmore
I had an interesting experience while out on a recent ride. Travelling along a road with no traffic, the only thing happening ahead was a man with a lawn mower cutting his nature strip. As I passed him a rock was thrown out and hit me right in the goggles.
This highlights two things, the importance of safety gear, and the fact that something so mundane can still be a threat to a motorcycle rider.
stay safe, David.
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Concentrate - Anticipate - Tolerate
By Roger Hill of Lilydale
Drive like a CAT -
C - Concentration
A - Anticipation
T - Toleration
I believe this to be the key to safe riding/driving encapsulated in an easy to remember acronym.
CONCENTRATION means keeping your mind wholly on the riding/driving activity, vehicle attitude, road conditions, other vehicle behaviour, etc.
ANTICIPATION means being alert for the effects of such as gravel on the road, a stick lying on the road, the possibility of a truck coming around a blind corner, etc.
TOLERATION means being calm in the face of aggressive behaviour by other road users.
Scanning in front
Look way down the road rather than just immediately in front of your front, keep scanning around oncoming vehicles and always assume everybody in a vehicle is going to do the wrong thing.
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Setting your own riding safety boundaries
By Jason Sonneman of Kyneton
Riding motorcycles in urban environments is hazardous to all riders, but particularly for first time motorcycle riders. Beginner motorcycle riders will often watch and copy the behaviour of other more experienced riders; however this is not always a wise thing to do.
In my view, the KEY to safe riding for all motorcyclists is to set your own riding safety boundaries, and to stick to them. Riding safety boundaries are safe riding rules/limitations that we set for ourselves, that will enable us to stay alive when riding motorcycles. All motorcycle riders have different riding skill levels. Be aware of your riding abilities and comfort zones, and integrate them with your riding safety boundaries.
Example 1. When riding at higher speeds in heavy traffic on freeways, I prefer to keep to one lane rather than moving in and out of lanes. Sure, it is always tempting to follow other motorcycle riders who may be more aggressively riding through the traffic. However, by sticking to my riding safety boundary/rules, I feel safer and it helps me to minimize the risk of placing myself in potentially dangerous situations.
Example 2. When moving between lanes in stationary traffic, ride at a speed that you are comfortable with, and that will enable you stop your motorcycle should a vehicle pull out in front of you. There are times when you may be running late. Don't be tempted to exceed the speed that you have determined that is within your riding safety boundary, even if other motorcycle riders may be doing so.
Example 3. When riding on freeways and other vehicles pass you, it is sometimes tempting to speed up or even pass the vehicles. OK, your bike is capable of going much faster than the other vehicles, but is speeding a safe thing to do? Remind yourself of your riding safety boundary, it will keep you alive.
By adopting your own motorcycle riding safety boundaries and sticking to them, you stand a much better chance of avoiding accidents and staying alive.
[Ed's note: Lane splitting is only legal when traffic is stationary, as described in Example 2. Another thought on speed... The faster you go, the harder it is to stop and the harder you hit.]
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Braking
By Peter Holden of Nar Nar Goon North
Another important part of riding is to practise your braking. Test your bike out to see what it will do on different surfaces and in different weather conditions.
Make sure the road (or track) is clear then apply your brakes, trying harder each time until you know what the bike will do.
Practise this most important part of riding and one day it may save your life, as it has done mine.
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Upright safety
By Nicole Donelly of Balwyn
Let me introduce myself, my name is Nicole, I'm 24 and have rev-head syndrome. I never used to have an interest in motobikes until I was dinked on an R1 and immediately had to go and get my motorcycle learners. I've been riding for three years now and in that time I have improved my riding skills and also learned of additional hazards on the road, for example these new wire barriers (I feel I've already lost votes on this article).
[Ed's note: See, no editing!]
I normally wouldn't waste my time writing to a web site expressing myself however I had to say that it was an excellent idea to send out the Save Your Skin information. In the time that I've been riding this is the first time I've seen anything to remind motorcyclists to play safe.
There were good pointers mentioned which I also noticed the few simple things every motorcyclist should have learned getting their learners unless they have no respect for themselves on the road or no common sense.
Last year I did an intermediate riders' course with Honda where most of the exercises where not that much different to those I learned at Motorcycle Motion when I got my licence. I was surprised that only half the class managed to practise the exercises successfully which also made me wonder how most of them passed the riding test. I then went on to do the advanced course.
This year I went to Motorcycling Australia and got my race licence so I could passenger on a sidecar and I also drag race my bike at Heathcote. Each bike, helmet and protective gear is scrutinised for safety before anyone can go on the track. And yet there are may be more hazards on a 60km/h zoned road than there are on a track doing 200km/h plus.
I have hit the hard abrasive surface at 60km/h which took the skin off my left knee, I lost concentration by giving myself a guilt trip when my pedantic, paranoid mother came looking for me. Although she was worried about me I was more concerned for my motorbike. Before I left for that ride my grandmother told me I should put my leather pants on, but no.
I learned my lesson....never to ride around my obsessively caring family again! Okay, on a serious note, put on your cow even if it's 45 degrees C.
I understand the urge to go fast but you can lose your licence, pay fines and possibly go too quickly to be able to react to unexpected obstacles because you want to go so fast you can see through time to do nothing more than create your last time. Why do people do monos and other stunts on the road, to impress people so they can say "he was doing well until...impressive, never seen it happen like that before!"
Come on guys, get real, keep your license and your head, and spend your money on events where you can go and do these things where it is supervised with medical assistance instead of wasting yourself or your cash on fines.
There are refresher courses to refine your skills, ride days at different tracks, and I've heard a rumour that a stunt school will be opening. You can even tune in to 97.1FM on Mondays between 4 and 7pm and listen to Revheads Review for tips, events and interviews.
Use your head and enjoy safe riding or just hope you don't lose it and have to wait who knows how long for medical assistance (possibly becoming too late for it anyway) to scrape your remains off the road! It's a harsh reality!
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Crashes
By Shane Rogers
There are no minor bike accidents. You always hit the ground.
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Trust
By Robbie O'Brien of Aspendale Gardens
Never trust any other person on the road.
Pretend that other people have not recognised that you are there and always analyse what different manouevres that person could do, to endanger you.
Remember: a smart rider is a safe rider.
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Think you know how to ride?
By Sandy Burgoyne
Think you know how to ride? Go to an accredited motorcycle school (such as HART) even if you think you know how to ride.
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Learner buddies
By Shaun Lennard
When first going on the road as a learner, buddy up with someone else from your learner course.
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Ride Smart - just finished it
By Martin Drought of South Melbourne
Well done guys. I just finished the Ride Smart CD.
I did it over about a week and have had several rides during the time. I am quite amazed that I am actually noticing stuff I would have never seen prior to doing the modules. The CD congratulated me for getting 76%, I personally was somewhat disappointed with such a low score.
I went to the Mornington peninsula over last weekend and couldn't stop myself from looking for driveways, side roads, kids on bikes etc and each time I found myself smiling at the results. Thanks for the great job you did in producing such a quality program.
Marty (60 years old and still loving my bike)
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Notes from a returned rider
By Glen Roberts of Reservoir
[Ed's note: This insight comes from a returned rider. On today's roads there are more returned riders,or people who have resumed riding after a break of a few years, then ever before. Returned riders may underestimate how much their riding skills have perished over the years.If you're a returned rider, think seriously about some refresher training to better prepare for today's bikes and the complexity of today's traffic.]
Reasonably new and back into riding, I use my bike daily to commute to work and home again. I leave around dusk or shortly after and ride home again in peak hour rush in the morning.The majority of my riding is at night and I thought I might pass on a couple of tips I've picked up on the way.
• Always prepare yourself for the conditions you ride in and unexpected conditions as well.
• I leave home knowing that by the following morning weather conditions may change so I always include wet weather gear.
• Before you leave give the bike a once-over, it's easier to do at home in the light of the garage than on the side of the road in the dark.
• People tend to think riding in cooler conditions at night means that you don't suffer from the elements as you would on a hot day.This is a misconception, it may be cold outside but because of the clothing you're wearing you may overheat,so it doesn't hurt to have a drink of water prior to leaving and to ensure that you also wear gear that will keep your body temperature even.Don't over-cook yourself and don't freeze. This knowledge comes with time and you'll soon work out which clothes to wear under your protective gear for various weather conditions.
• At anytime you feel uncomfortable, pull over somewhere safe and make the required changes, it only takes a minute or two.
• Wearing a reflective vest will help your visibility with other road users. If you haven't got a vest you can purchase rolls of the reflective tape and sew it to your safety gear.
• Visibility is a critical factor when travelling at night, so do what you can to ensure others can see you.
• Keep out of blind spots. If you see a car is waiting to pull out move the bike a few inches to one side,this slight direction change makes your headlight move and if the car driver's vision was impeded by a sign or power pole it will help catch their attention.
• Adjust your headlights for maximum effectiveness, there is no use having it blazing up the road when your mainlighting source is coming from streetlights as once you get into the smaller side streets you will find that you can't see.
• If you have a blackened or an iridium visor, carry a clear pair of safety glasses (wrap around type)that you can lift your visor and still have protection for your eyes from the wind and the elements.You can normally pick them up for around $5 at hardware stores. Otherwise, change to a clear visor.
• Always remember that at night, and in colder climates your tyres take longer to warm up than during the day, so it takes longer to reach maximum grip. So wipe of a few Ks and give yourself extra room and time.
• During dusk and at night, dew tends to settle on the road making white lines, painted parts of the road and tram tracks extremely slippery. Take care when approaching these hazards.
• Last but not least arrive alive, don't speed, take your time arrive a few minutes late. It's better than not arriving at all.
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Water is a Lubricant
By Gary Piper of Wodonga
Other Tips have talked about water as a lubricant, and water lifting oil onto a road surface. And these are very salutary lessons to learn, but do we know how much difference water makes?
It's not just that water lubricates the road, but the change in harmonics from a dry to a wet road affects tyre grip too. All those little holes fill to an extent with water, and the vibrations set up in the tyre change. Wet roads can drop your tyre's grip by in excess of half its dry "stickability".
siishshshsh, zzzzzz, bang - it's a sound no motorcyclist ever needs to hear. Safe riding all.
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Arriving alive
By Nathaniel Hally of Westmeadows
In late 2001 I bought myself a CBR1000 and headed off for a seven week road trip. Departing from Melbourne then to Adelaide, Alice Springs, Darwin, across to Cairns and back down the East coast to Brisbane, Sydney, then home. I had been riding for 3 years and had just over 50,000 road kilometres of experience before the trip. The trip was fantastic and I would recommend anyone doing it on two wheels.
It was in the far North West of Qld that I almost came amiss. It was at least 40 degrees, my bike was fully loaded, I was drinking more water than my bike petrol and yet the heat still got to me.
On this particular leg of the journey my eyes were extremely heavy. There was no shade to be seen to take a break, so I continued riding. On one occasion I closed my eyes for a split second and found myself on the opposite side of the road. I had to pull over and rest. With no relief from the sun, I laid next to my bike, leather jacket for a mattress, camel pak (water backpack) for a pillow and made the most of the shade from my front wheel. I sleep for about 20 minutes and continued my journey safely.
I can't stress enough how important it is to stop when tired and take a break. Do it even if the conditions aren't perfect, as mine weren't. I arrived alive.
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Touring
By Brian Beardon of Narre Warren North
Touring on motorbikes is a completely different experience to long distance car driving. As a motorcyclist you're open to the elements, which cause fatigue, exhaustion and hypothermia far quicker than other road users.
Planning your trip is essential. Touring maps are readily available from many different sources and are available on the internet for download for free.
Once you have planned the route it's always advisable to contact an organisation such as motorcycle touring club, association or the RACV to find out the availability of fuel and road conditions. There's nothing worse than at the end of the day's riding finding out you have to complete a 60km journey on dirt and gravel road.
Your bike preparation is an integral part, ensure that it is serviced and a safety check is advisable. Packing your bike with all the necessary bags and stuff will alter the handling and suspension setup of all motorcycles. A good idea for this is to pack the bike previous to the trip and go for a quick ride, test how the bike fully loaded corners, handles and brakes and try different suspension adjustment to make this as smooth as possible.
Packing for a long trip I would recommend including items such as wet weather gear, first aid kit, cable ties, electrical tape, tools, puncture repair kit, sunglasses and a mobile phone.
Due to the variable range of a motorcycle you usually will need to fuel up every 2 to 3 hours. This is an ideal time also to eat, drink and have a good 15 minute rest period. It is always a good safety thought to lube your chain every 400km. Given it takes approx 10 to 20 minutes for the chain lube to set it's a great time for a rest period.
Night time country riding would be the hardest as the headlights on motorcycles are not the greatest. Sit in the middle to right hand side of your lane to avoid animals merging from the road side. Also when overtaking a car allow for the car to follow your headlight across into the other lane, this is a normal issue for many drivers to follow headlights at night time.
Upon arriving at your end of day location it's always a good idea to call someone to inform them you have arrived safely at your destination, and to check on up the next day's weather condition.
Some other good points:
• Make sure you get a good night sleep before heading off
• Don't drink alcohol during your riding periods
• Limit a day's riding to approximately 600km
• Take regular breaks
• Ensure you drink sufficient fluids to avoid dehydration, particularly in the warmer months
• Give your visor a good clean at each stop, to ensure good visibility
• At each break, do a safety check of your bike, tyres, suspension etc.
• Check with the Local Police, RACV (or similar) or Service Station about road conditions ahead
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Suggestions from the high country
By Jolene Doller of Dartmouth
G'day, g'day. I discovered this site about a week ago. I had few laughs and a few reality checks and thought I'd add some wisdom. The fact I need a new pair of boots didn't cross my mind at all!
I'm just a typical country girl originally born and bred in the Goulburn Valley, also known as the 'Flat Land. I moved to the Legends, Wine and High Country in North East Victoria two years ago, but in the last 12 months I've been shocked by the amount of fellow bikers visiting Albury/Wodonga outpatients.
I learnt a few heart thumping lessons early in the piece, so here are a few handy tips before you come to visit.
• I remember my dad saying before I'd head off on long trip, 'have you checked the weather forecast?' Yeah yeah... with the opinion that if you can't ride in the rain you weren't really having a go... but rain up here means a hell of a lot more. When it rains, we get rock slides. When we get wind, we get trees, debris and rock slides. When we get storms we get all of the above plus stray cattle and increased heavy traffic. My suggestion: don't just rely on national weather forecasting, call a local pub and ask them road and weather conditions...preferably around noon, before the amber liquid clouds their vision!
• Critters! Well we've all probably crossed a critter or two over the years, but in hilly territory you'll find an abundance of fat large multicoloured wombats, roos, foxes, rabbits, domestic and wild dogs... My suggestion: during the day keep in mind road kill and farm dogs, Dusk and dawn...take it easy! Fog, critters and tight corners which literally don't see the light. While you're on the phone to the pub ask about them too!
• Many people are not aware that Dartmouth and the Mitta Valley do not have mobile coverage and it's fantastic! But in the event of a mishap... My suggestion: have a destination. Take a mate with you, or if you're after a solo escape, phone ahead with an approximate arrival time.
• Finally, probably the most terrifying encounter you could ever have...the bloody local! My suggestion: avoid at all costs, anticipate every possible move they might make...stopping for no reason, throwing a can out the window, driving anywhere at anytime on the road, and don't presume they have seen or heard you.
The great part about Dart...one road in and one road out...a sealed road with it all...
Hope you come to visit soon! Happy Trails!
Read more about Rider Safety.
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Personal Safety - Summer and Winter Gear
By Max Clark of Cranbourne
I would like to pass on to all the riders out there a little bit of personal wisdom which I hope will save their SKIN.
I have been riding bikes for around 25 years now and it still amazes me how many riders do not wear the correct personal safety equipment when riding. Yes, everyone (except a few) I have seen wears a helmet (got to protect the old noodle), but what I am talking about is - Jackets, Gloves, Boots and LONG pants.
So many riders just wear shorts, T-shirts/Singlets and runner/Thongs when it is summer. THAT REALLY IS STUPID.
You have no protection at all and I will say - Skin grafts really hurt. Ask my friend about it. My saying in summer is this - IF IT IS TOO HOT TO WEAR ALL THE SAFETY GEAR, THEN IT IS TO HOT TO RIDE. Basically, we all know what a graze feels like, now multiply it 100X or 1000X. That's the sort of pain you will get when you come off at the speed limit. Safe riding to all and see you out there.
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Protective Gear for Summer
By Dennis Nichols of Taylors Hill
It never ceases to amaze me the amount of people who do not wear appropriate protective gear. During the summer months I have seen many riders just wearing Tee shirts and shorts. Some riders don't even wear gloves. If you do fall off instinct will tell you to put your hands out and if you don't wear gloves falling off at say 60km/h will be like putting a cheese grater against the palm of your hands. The Moral here is always wear your gloves and if it's too hot, remove the liner out of your jacket instead of not wearing one at all.
[Ed's note: This gets my endorsement. Always wear full protective gear in all riding and weather conditions.]
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Need those gloves
By Martin de Haas of Werribee
Having ridden across the East Coast of Australia over the last 25 years and on a number of different bikes, I have had many an occasion to thank my sturdy gloves.
"Coming Off" is not a pleasant experience, no matter what the cause, we all know that. There is no need to expound the virtues of the gloves in that situation - we all know them.
It is weather that is often overlooked, and even then, the most thought of is the cold.
[Ed's note: Always wear full protective gear whenever you ride regardless of weather conditions.]
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Back Protector is a Lifesaver
By Peter Elston of Frankston
Recently I had a horrific motorbike accident. The Paramedic that cut my riding gear off me, found that I had a "turtle shell" Dainese Kevlar Back Protector inserted in my jacket. As I'm laying on the operating theatre table, he pulls it out, holds it above my face where I can see, and says boldly, "THIS SAVED YOUR LIFE!!!!" with an astonishing look, after all my severe injuries.
The moral of the story is - Look at all the protective clothing you are currently using, and think hard whether it covers all the major impact spots of your body! You only get 1 body, 1 life, and sometimes 1 chance in an accident. Is your spine covered, the 1 part of your body that holds on your nerves, brain sensors, heart, lungs and generally your whole body up, so that you can walk?? Does your jacket incorporate a back/spine protector?? These protectors come in different sizes, shapes, and thicknesses - so it is up to you to purchase the 1 to suit your own body and back shape. Most jackets & leathers incorporate a holder or zipper insert to fit 1 of these. Think number 1 - think of yourself - go and get 1!!!!
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Leg Protection
By Zoe Pfitzner of Hughesdale
If you're just wearing jeans when you ride, the abrasive road will tear through way too easily if you do hit the road. It's worthwhile investing in some leathers or other type of pants made for riding, which may also include some armour to protect your bones.
Putting yourself in the in safe gear, will mean that there won't be any "should haves" if something does go wrong.
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Tinted Visors
By Matthew Keogh of Berwick
I recently joined the motorcycling community last summer. At the time the hot summer days and bright sunshine lead me to purchase a tinted visor for my helmet.
I thought this was the best purchase that I could make, until I went on a long ride and didn't plan for the fact that I would be riding back at night.
I would just like to let people know, especially those new to riding, that while a tinted visor is great in the daylight, it makes it very difficult to see at night and is quite dangerous. Try to plan your rides and if you are going to ride at night, change to a clear visor. This seems pretty obvious, but it caught me out and may catch you out if you are not prepared.
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Clean Visor/Goggles/Glasses/Mirrors
By Chris Stroud of Wallan Wallan
A good clear field of vision is extremely important when riding a motor cycle. I have found that by cleaning not only your two rear vision mirrors with a good quality silicone polish but also your visor.
Clean the inside of your visor as well and if your wear glasses, either sunnies or optical glasses, polish these as well. The bugs that splatter on the visor are now easier to clean off when you stop for a rest or to refuel.
I also carry a small bottle of windshield cleaner to clear my visor when conditions are bad. You will also find that by cleaning your visor with silicon that when it is raining the water will bead and run off the visor more easily than if you had not cleaned it at all.
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Stay dry this winter (waterproofing your boots)
By Steve Convy of Ormond
Recall the feeling of cold in your loins after the trip home in the rain? Has anyone yet discovered a decent pair of wet weather pants? Forget how much they cost, most of them are pretty good, but none are 100%. The fix is easy though; gaffer tape. Just line the inside seams. This works people, trust me.
It works on boots too, especially on the left boot, where the gear shift rubs. Even on a good pair the stitches will eventually wear on the gear protectors. So there you go. Always carry some gaffer tape. You'd be surprised how handy it can be.
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Rider comfort helps prevent fatigue
By Barry Park of Warragul
Rider comfort is an important aspect of rider fatigue. Noise, cold and other forms of discomfort in wet weather can be minimised with a bit of careful pre-planning.
• Carry two sets of gloves. Leave one set inside your jacket to stay warm. If you stop for petrol in the rain, swap gloves. If one pair is damp, place them back inside your jacket and let your body heat dry and warm them.
• It's pretty difficult to keep boots dry. One way around this is to visit Melbourne's ski shops during summer. Pick up a pair of XXL cross-country ski gaiters out of the bargain bin that fit over the outside your boots. The ski gear is generally made to be form-fitting, so there shouldn't be any dangling straps to catch on anything. They will protect 80 per cent of your boots from the weather.
• Rain gets in everywhere. Buy a close-fitting rain set - anorak and overpants - and wear them underneath riding gear.
• Plan escape routes. If you're doing an extended ride and the weather is really bad, aim for a pre-planned place to get out of the weather and dry out or warm up. Friends and relatives are often quite sympathetic to a drenched rider showing up on their doorstep.
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Wear protective clothing
By Chris Bouwemeester
If you don't wear your protective clothing, don't ride, if you can't afford protective wear, you can't afford to ride.
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Picking up your new scooter: the paranoid guide to buyer safety
By Richard Scouse of South Yarra
Checklist before signing the paperwork for your new Scooter:
• Visual Inspection, is this the scooter you thought you were buying?
• Check every panel for scuffs, scratches and marks.
• Start the engine.
• Check all lights, indicators, gauges and the horn. Turn the headlights on and check that they aren't pointing too high (as best you can). While you are checking the lights, ask if the replacement bulbs can be bought at a petrol station. If they can't, it's probably a good time to buy a spare set.
• Sit on the scooter and "play ride", indicating, braking etc (for as long as you can without feeling stupid). Remember stupid is a relative thing. Think how stupid you will look hitting the kill switch instead of indicating while doing an overtaking manoeuvre.
• Be aware that your tyres are likely to be brand new. Take extra care because they will not have full grip (especially in the wet) until they have been bedded in a bit. Check that they are correctly inflated.
• Spin the front wheel to see if the speedo is working.
• Good quality dealers will often clock up a couple of dozen kilometres bedding in the tyres and testing the bike on your behalf. However check the speedo, if it has what you think is excessive kilometres on the clock you should find out why. A scooter however does not have 100 Kilometres on the clock. If yours does it is not a new scooter and you should either demand a replacement or a hefty discount.
• Paperwork. You should get a owners manual and a warranty book. The warranty book should have the dealers stamp, engine, chassis and model details at the barest minimum.
• It is best to flick through the pages and insist that ALL sections are completed.
• Keys, there should be at least two sets and a note of the key number.
• Additionally, before you ride off... Have a quick read of the running in section, to start off on a good foot.
If the dealer is unwilling to do any of the above or if any of the above are faulty DONT sign the paperwork. ONCE YOU SIGN, THE SCOOTER IS YOURS AND ANY PROBLEMS WILL PROBABLY BE HANDBALLED TO THE SERVICE DEPARTMENT......and then you wait......and...... wait......and......wait.
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Scooter stereotype? Don't believe it!
By Paul McIntosh of Richmond
If you are thinking about getting a scooter, don't believe the scooter stereotype pushed by TV and other media. The media would like you to believe that you can hop on a scooter in a suit or skirt and ride away without a care in the world... if you think that's the truth, then you are asking for trouble.
Australia is not Italy - in some parts of Italy scooters outnumber cars. In Australia they don't. Car drivers are not very aware of motorcycles and even less aware of scooters, which are smaller and their speed is harder to predict.
Just like a motorcycle - riding a scooter does not prevent you from having accidents, it does not prevent you from getting wet, and it does not prevent you hitting a collection of bugs or getting cold.
If you are buying a scooter, think about the same safety gear as you would for a motorcycle. A good waterproof jacket and pants will mean you will be able to ride more often and more comfortably. A full face helmet will also protect your face from the weather as well as road dangers.
Good gloves will keep your hands warm and protected. Should you fall, your hands will be the first things you will stick out to protect yourself. So make sure there is something protecting your hands.
Boots with ankle support are also needed. Keep you good work shoes for work and wear proper motorcycle boots for riding. Your work shoes will laster longer at work and your feet and ankles will last longer while you ride.
So you just want to commute and think the expense of good motorcycle gear is not warranted? Before going out to buy a scooter, keep a track of the weather. Note down every rainy day, as is it will be a day you would not be riding. Note every cold day, as it will also be a day you would not be riding. Then think, is it still worth buying a scooter without the gear?
Also be aware that scooters are sold as cheap commuting machines. It is sometimes good to check whether the tyres sold with the scooter are a good quality product. The wheels on scooters are smaller so good tyres are important to maintain grip with the road. If you are able to bargain with the dealer, try to get better tyres fitted as part of the sale.
In short - two wheels are two wheels. The reality of scooter riding is not the same as the stereotype... the days are not always sunny and the coffee is not always good.
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Scooter Riders - Watch Your Feet!
By Danny Gelb of Syndal
I ride a 150cc motor scooter. I wear a high-visibility protective jacket and always have my headlight on. A few weeks ago, whilst riding to work, an elderly driver sitting at a stop sign failed to see me. As he pulled directly into my path, I braked hard (I was only doing 40kms/hr). The bike skidded and then fell to the road with me still in the seat. My first thought was "I'm down. I'm actually on the ground". This, I had been told by the guy who sold me the bike, was an inevitable part of riding a scooter/bike on Melbourne roads. I had been fine for 15 months, had managed to avoid trouble and ride within my ability in all weather conditions without a problem. On this day, a driver failed to give way from a side-street and my run of good luck came crashing to an end.
The result of this slow speed, low-impact accident has been more than a month of excrutiating pain with several more to come. The bike fell onto my foot. I was wearing ordinary sneakers and have suffered several broken bones and smashed joints. I spent a day in hospital having x-rays done, several more having my foot operated on and metal plates/pins inserted and am only able to get around on crutches for "who-knows" how long. I will need another operation in a year's time to have the plates and pins removed. I had just commenced a new business venture and now am unable to work for several weeks, possibly months!
My scooter was written off in the accident and I now have to seriously consider whether or not to buy another one. It will probably be a year or so before my injuries are sufficiently healed to allow me to get back into the saddle. If I had been wearing a more solid pair of shoes/boots, I doubt that I would have been injured as seriously. My wife rides a Honda 125cc scooter to commute. She also has all the high-visibility safety gear. She's started wearing Blundstone-style boots as a result of my accident.
As the guy who sold me the bike lamented: "you can be doing everything 100% correctly all the time and it only takes one idiot driver to take you out!" I really thought I would be the exception to this statement but I know now I was kidding myself - I found that out the hard (and painful) way.
[Ed's note: When buying boots, look for those specifically designed to protect a rider during an accident. Riding boots will protect the most vulnerable parts of your feet (toes, heels and shins) with reinforcement. The best boots are constructed out of the strongest grade leather or microfibre to protect your feet if they end up under a sliding bike. Unpredictable things happen on the road. The only person you can rely on is yourself.]
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Car Body Language
By Anthony Batchelor of Stawell
The best place to observe a car's body language when approaching from head on (when they are turning right across in front of you) or from the side, is its front wheels (when doing under 80 kms). It is the easiest indicator that the driver is moving forward, turning due to the instant movement of the front wheels.
You cannot rely on indicators.
Concentrate on the wheels but be aware of the rest of the car, its body language and the general environment of course.
When riding behind cars, tail lights play the same role, especially the brake lights (assuming they work).
Using these focus points and actually waiting for the motor vehicle to take the course of action indicated provides the rider with the earliest possible detection process for understanding what a driver is actually doing.
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Cars that don't give way
By Belinda Coleman of Diamond Creek
As a relatively new rider, I am very cautious about looking out for cars that are not going to give way. I received a great tip from a seasoned rider once and use it all of the time.
When riding along and you see a car ahead at a 'give way' on your left or right, always look at the front wheel of the car as well as attempting to make eye contact with the driver. If the front wheel is moving slowly, it's likely that the driver hasn't seen you and is not going to give way. You will have time to take evasive action if necessary!
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Driving in congested traffic - gaps and cars merging
By Peter Edens of Kalorama
When travelling to or from the city during peak hour the roads are often heavily congested with traffic. This is a dangerous environment for the motorcyclist. Car drivers can change lanes suddenly upon seeing a gap in the traffic and will not see a motorcyclist travelling between the traffic. When there is a gap in the traffic large enough for a car to merge, slow down so that you have enough time to react if a car suddenly changes lanes.
(Ed's note: Remember that riding between lines of moving vehicles, more commonly known as lane splitting is not only dangerous as described but is also illegal).
When cars are waiting to merge from side streets the traffic will sometimes stop and leave a gap for them to cross both lanes to merge. Sometimes these cars merge with the direction of the traffic and sometimes they cross completely to the other side of the road and travel in the opposite direction. These drivers are usually looking in the wrong direction when a bike approaches. When approaching side streets, slow down and check if there are any cars waiting to merge and if there are make sure that the driver has seen you. If you are unsure, slow down and stop with the traffic as it is better to wait for a short time than to wreck your bike and yourself.
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Car Count
By Bruce James of Leopold
In traffic you need to car count. This is a method of paying attention to all the vehicles around you. For example if there was a blue sedan behind me and a white car beside that. When I look again which should be very regularly but not to distraction I notice that there is only a white car. I then need to find where the blue sedan has gone. Is it on my rear quarter, Is it overtaking me, has it seen me.
If you can not locate the car in an effective check then it has turned off. You must always know where all vehicles are around you at all times.
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Effective Braking to Cope with Unpredictable Driving
By Peter Hayles of Altona
One of the most important things I learned in my early years of riding is to be a bit paranoid. Treat every car like they are out to get you and you greatly increase your chances of survival. Almost every day I ride, someone does something illegal or completely unexpected. Sometimes it is foolish, more than often it is just plain ignorance.
All that aside, you will never win an argument with a car or a truck when you are on a bike.
So the number one rule has got to be avoidance. Now most of you can handle a bike for sure, but when it comes to the crunch, how quickly can you really pull up, particularly in the wet? In the moment of panic you have got to know EXACTLY how much you pull up, if you lock up your rear, or even worse your front, you will be out of control in no time at all.
So... like everything else, practise. In the dry to start with. Travel along an empty road at say 60kph and apply the rear brake only at a particular point. See how long it takes to stop. Now repeat with only the front brake. A bit better that time? Now try for the optimal mix. You should find it to be about 80% front with just a bit of rear, particularly on sport bikes. In the wet this changes to almost 60% front. But the rear still counts a bit.
I also like to practise locking up the rear quickly, to test the road or tyre condition. Just quickly stamp on the brake when alone on a straight bit of road.
Another technique to practise is compensating for engine braking. Engine braking occurs though the rear wheel of course, so try changing down through the gears, using only rear braking to come to a smooth stop. What you need to do is back off your right (brake foot) each time the clutch is released. This will ensure an even braking force on your rear wheel. When you learn this and bring back your front brake your braking performance will be smoother and better. Good habits to get into NOW, before that next lunatic pulls out on you.
[Ed's note: When buying a bike it is a good idea to budget in the cost of your full protective gear.]
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Keep anger in check
By David Pleasance of Burwood
I have been riding on the road for many years now and consider myself fortunate in that I have had few incidents that have caused me danger.
I find that if I am in a situation of another driver's fault, I will never get angry at the situation and seek retribution. I will say silently "no I insist - after you" rather than swear and flick the bird. As a younger man I may have.
If you allow yourself to get angry, you will endanger yourself greatly by fuelling an already tense situation. No good will come out of a road rage incident with you on two wheels.
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Be safer behind trucks - from a truck driver/rider
By Craig Baxter of Euchuca
As a truck driver & rider I would like to pass on a couple of tips for the open road.
If you are going to slipstream a truck I personally don't mind as long as I know you are there. Just pop out to the right hand corner once in a while to remind us you are there.
The most important thing is don't sit too close - stay back at least a car length as things can get shot out from underneath - bits of blown tyres, sticks even dead animals that have been hit by the truck. If you are too close you won't have time to react.
I have seen the end result & it wasn't pretty. This applies doubly so at night.
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Trucks are not your friend
By Leigh Knight of Frankston
As both a rider and truck driver, I spend a lot of my day on the freeways around Melbourne and I'd like to pass on a little advice if I may.
Okay, the tip is this, if you want to slip through next to a truck, don't do it on his left side! The visibility from that mirror is incredibly limited and a single headlight amongst the others doesn't register all that well.
(Ed’s Note: A reminder that lane splitting is both illegal and dangerous).
If you have to do it, sit back at the right hand corner of the truck, the driver will see you within a few minutes as that mirror is less peripheral than the left. Most truckies will shift to the left of the lane to give you room once they have seen you. Sure, some won't. If they don't move over it means they haven't seen you or simply aren't moving. If that is the case, don't split the lane! Semis wander around a lot.
Other bits:
• Don't sit behind tip trucks. They carry anything from sand to concrete rubble. It hurts when it comes out and hits you.
• Don't sit behind low loaders. The usually carry machinery such as graders or backhoes. The trailer will always be left with clay or soil on it. This also hurts.
• Be careful of the dirty air from trucks. As you pass, the draught from a truck can change from pushing you away to suddenly drawing you in.
• Once you have everyone's attention by blipping the throttle coming into the car park, don't forget to put your stand down before trying to get off and go to the ATM. Yes, I know.
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Wet Roads - Smart Positioning
By John Pozzobon of Wheelers Hill
After a period of heavy rain, a good strategy to adopt is to follow the tyre track of a leading car. The water expulsion ability of most car tyres far exceeds that of motorcycle tyres and this makes for safer riding. Also try to avoid the concrete section on which tram rails are laid. Water will tend to pool whereas it will lie slightly below the surface in the roughness of bitumen.
[Ed's note: And remember to extend your survival space on wet roads. You need a following distance of at least three seconds to give you adequate time to respond if the vehicle ahead acts unpredictably. Give yourself even more survival space if the vehicle ahead is a truck or bus, which is harder to see around. Keeping your lights running always helps with visibility.]
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White Lines
By David Brittain of Werribee
This I believe is something that novice riders should be made aware of: painted lines on the roads. The main ones to be aware of are the arrow directions. These are quite wide and large. These should be taken with extreme caution, not only on the dry but paramount in the wet or very cold condition. These lines have the same affect as ice in wet conditions and should, if possible, be avoided.
As we are only a fraction the size of cars, we have the ability to place ourselves in certain parts of the lane. When coming to a corner that has a direction arrow, just place yourself slightly to the left or right. If this is impossible, reduce speed to a minimum and adjust you body weight so the lean angle is reduced, decreasing the likelihood of the rear wheel loosing traction. Like any corner, avoid braking. The white lines (arrows) are very large and visible so your line and speed into the corner should already have been adjusted to suit. Direction arrows on corners are rare (most are placed before the corner) but like all riding, scan ahead, think of the conditions you are in and adjust riding to suit.
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Debris on the road/keeping safe distance
By Lancer Nichols of East Geelong
I have been riding for many years, and I still come across rubbish that has fallen off cars, trucks etc that could cause you a serious injury should you hit these objects.
I was riding on the M1 freeway last month when I came across a 1.4m long star post right in the middle of my lane. I did see the post in time and went around the post. If I was too close to the car in front of me I may have run over the post and lost control.
It pays to keep at least 5 car lengths so you have a chance to avoid any debris on the road. The Great Ocean Road is one place great for riding but watch out for small rocks on the road that can catch you out.
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Trail bikes on Bitumen
By Mike Allan of Hallam
With the high price of petrol lately I have noticed a large number of Trail bikes being used to commute to and from work. Most of these bikes will have tyres more suited to dirt tracks and gravel roads, and do not offer the amount of grip in bitumen as do more conventional road tyres. This situation is made even worse on wet roads.
So if you are riding your trail bike with off-road type tyres to and from work, please take extra care. If you intend to continue riding your trail bike to work you would be well advised to get a set of Dual Sport tyres fitted to your bike. Dual sport tyres will give you much better grip on bitumen, and will still be useable on gravel roads. Unfortunately they will be next to useless on tracks used for traditional trail riding. If you leave your trail tyres on your bike they will soon be worn out if you ride on bitumen for any length of time, so not only will they be useless for trail riding they will be useless for the road as well.
The weekend trail rider will also have limited experience of handling road traffic and road conditions, so again take extra care, keep a safe distance from the vehicle in front of you and make sure you can be seen by the other road users around you by positioning yourself in the right hand wheel track of the lane you are travelling in, turn on your headlight, wear a reflective vest or any other measure you and think of that will make you stand out from the crowd. Most of all expect the unexpected, be prepared to take evasive action or emergency brake at any moment, in short ride in a manner that will allow you to avoid accidents.
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If you hit a dog
By Brian Podem of North Caulfield
Sometimes even the most experienced riders have come to grief when a dog or cat unexpectedly darts out in front of them.
The most normal reaction in this situation is to brake. But it is imperative not to be braking or swerving at the moment when you hit the animal, if it's avoidable.
What you want to do is to straighten the bike up and if anything to accelerate just before impact with the animal. This will lighten the front end of the bike so you will go over the top of it.
If you are braking when you hit it, the wheel will lock and you will slide along the road. If you are leaning the bike to avoid the animal but you hit it, the outcome will be the same.
[Ed's note: Very true, but apologies to animal lovers all the same.]
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City Riding v Country Riding
By John Kaup of Wangaratta
The difficult part of inner city riding that I have found is anticipating what car drivers are about to do. If you look at the driver (without losing focus on what else is going on around you), they are always looking in the opposite direction to you. It's always safe to slow down a little at intersections and be ready for someone to pull out in front of you.
Country riding is great fun, there's nothing better. But it can quickly come to an end when you're in an avenue of trees and an oncoming car doesn't see you. Modern bikes these days have the headlight wired ON, but if you have an older bike like me it's much safer to make sure it's ON before you ride.
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Can't change others
By Ken Rodger
You can't change the way others drive or ride. You have to miss them.
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Practice your Riding Skills, and get to Know your Bike
By Dietmar Hildebrand (2009 rider safety tip competition winner)
Most essential for safe riding is to practise your bike riding skills and get to know your bike's handling characteristics.
This is best done in an area without public traffic such as parking lot or a paddock - ideally both. Learn to handle your bike at very low speeds, go in very tight circles until you can handle the bike with virtually locked handlebars. Try to ride at walking pace or slower. Practise pushing your bike, lifting it on the centre stand, lay it flat on the ground and lift it up again.
Practise emergency braking at various speeds. If your bike is fitted with ABS then test the ABS, learn to brake at full force with ABS kicking in. Finally take your bike into a paddock and experience the rear wheel skidding. Try a few drifts - this will eliminate the shock when it happens on the road.
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Not planning to come off the bike
By Matty Dee of Maidstone
Having a conversation the other day with someone about riding and protective gear, I caught myself saying words to the effect that "I don't plan on coming off but..." Well, it goes without saying really. We don't plan on coming off our bikes for whatever reason. But as I said that, I thought to myself, "No, I don't plan to come off. I actually plan to stay on." I wonder how many other riders do that. Actually plan and carefully consider how they are going to maintain a state of togetherness with their machine.
Of course we do give much consideration to what might happen if we do come off and, therefore, choose to take measures to protect ourselves in the event of a spill. But we don't (and can't) plan when or how we might come off the bike (imagine if we could though. I bet there'd be no fatalities or serious injuries and just think how cheap our insurance and rego would be). So does that mean coming off is inevitable (as those who see motorcycling as dangerous seem to perceive)?
In my humble opinion I say absolutely not! Of course there is bad luck. But bad luck is a plane falling out of the sky and landing right in front of you causing a collision. Bad luck is not being hit by some idiot driver who turned in front of you and claims he didn't see you. Nor is bad luck a system or component malfunction of the bike. And bad luck most definitely is not misjudging corner entry speed or angle or both.
Yes there are some things that are out of our control and we can't really plan for them and probably shouldn't worry too much about them. But if we are serious about our own health and safety then it is our responsibility (and ours alone) to ensure the following:
• If some drivers (by no means the majority) are not going to look out for us and respect us as road users, we need to keep out of their way. Although we might be more nimble, if they catch us, they will hurt us. (Remember, the only rights you have are the ones you can defend).
• Make sure your bike is safe and roadworthy at all times. If it isn't, don't ride it. There are some safety checks that should be done before every ride. Others need to be done at least weekly. If you don't know or are unsure what they are, find out!
• Always think about where you are and what you are doing and remember that some things need to be considered before you do them (cornering is a perfect example).
• Be proactive in everything you do on your bike. Your reflexes and reaction time might be quick but, like a goalie in soccer, they are your LAST line of defence and won't always save you.
It is also very important to remember why we ride and to enjoy the whole experience of motorcycling. Never mind the increasing costs of insurance and registration. Never mind the risk, or actual injury, permanent disability or death. Never mind time off work and loss of income. Never mind expensive repairs or replacement costs and even higher insurance costs. Think about not being able to ride. Doesn't really matter how long for, be it a day or the rest of your life. Just think about not being able to. If planning to stay on my bike means I can ride for the rest of my life, then it will be worth the time and effort.
Good luck. Ooops, I mean good planning and happy riding to you all.
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Single vehicle bike crashes
By Ian Dodds of Ferntree Gully
Look where you want to go!
That's bloody difficult to do when you suddenly realise that you're going into a bend too hard.
Maybe it's not my fault, such as decreasing radius corners, or maybe it looked right for the car, so I thought it would be the right speed for the bike.
The adrenalin starts pumping when I get caught out like this and I must admit that playing follow the leader in a car for a living gives me some bad habits for riding. Looking at the car in front, or looking at where my headlights shine up the road is one of the worst habits I get roped into sometimes.
Then I get on the bike and sometimes forget that my reasonable skills aren't up to the million or so kilometres of experience I have in the car.
I'm one of those idiots that spent half his budget on rider training and only a smallish amount on the bike itself. The result is quite clear though, I've gotten into some scary situations on the old motorcycle at times, yet I've managed to remember the "Look where you want to go" rule each time.
If any single piece of rider training has kept me upright, in all of the times that I've made that slight error of judgement, it has to be that one phrase. It is indeed the truest single fact of driving any kind of vehicle.
Where you look is where you'll go
Given that I totally believe this to be true, I wonder how many single vehicle bike crashes could have been saved if the rider stayed calm and simply looked to where the road straightened out. The pro's tell me that the bike will look after itself and if I don't make any nasty changes, like stand it up or hit the brakes, there is every chance that the bike will go where I look. That, of course, is where I want it to go.
I can't pretend to know the details of every single bike crash, and I really don't want to. I'll even bet that some of the crashes were just not recoverable situations.
But I'll also bet that some were.
Yes, I'm sure that the tyres may have been slipping for some, the road may have been dirty for some, but I'm also sure that some of the best things I've done on the road have been to simply look to where I want to go, and hope.
It isn't easy. Tearing your eyes away from the danger is very hard. The adrenalin makes it even harder. Not knowing how close the danger is, and not seeing the thing that you were about to hit go past, is a scary thought.
It works though!
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Pillion Passengers
By John Stap
Here is a tip for the riders and pillion passengers on motorcycles.
Whenever you carry a pillion passenger there are some things that you should consider. Is the passenger you are carrying lighter or heavier than the rider is? This is important, as their weight will greatly affect the way the bike handles particularly when cornering.
If you are a pillion passenger try and keep your body in line with the rider staying vertical to the motorcycle, the pillion passenger should think of themselves as part of the motor cycle and must not under any circumstance try to control the bike. It is the job of the rider to control the amount of lean for cornering purposes.
Also when you are a pillion passenger make sure you hold onto the rider or some other fixed part of the motorcycle, as there is nothing worse than a passenger who has lost his balance and is now trying to get their balance back.
Safe Riding
[Ed's Note: Remember that just like the rider, pillion passengers should wear full protective gear at all times when out riding.]
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Weighty Issue
By Andrew Robertson of Canterbury
I found that having bought a new motorcycle recently circa 2004 that things have changed dramatically from when I last rode a motorbike full time several years earlier.
People who have had a break from the road for a number of years will relate, and those who have been on bikes for their entire lives may have noticed a subtle change, this can be a dangerous cocktail.
Weighing up my pride
I left work on my bike which I had just completely rebuilt, traveling towards the local 'T' intersection which was frequented by trucks and other vehicles. It was a fairly heavy industrial area so traffic was constant. (There was light rain after a heavy downpour)
As I approached the "T" intersection I remember applying the single piston front disc brake.......it seemed to lock up........STRANGE I THOUGHT and it felt like the hair on my neck stood up.
The next thing I remembered was watching my bike, sparks flying of the newly polished pipes skid down the road in front of me as my helmet bumped along the road surface...........
I was shocked as I watched it slide just past the white line if the "T" intersection.
I immediately jumped to my feet, picked it up and pushed it into the gutter just as a car buzzed past me.
I was shocked and annoyed, I surveyed the crash site and discovered that there was a spray of asphalt gravel which was washed onto the road by puddles probably driven through by trucks.
The bike and I weighed close to 200kg and I misjudged how quickly I could stop without seeing the gravel scattered across the road with the addition of the light rain.
My second bike and I had a combined weight around 250kg+ this I discovered adds 'additional' stopping distance, especially when wet.
Coming around the round about towards work, the bike just seemed to take a path of its own, road surface and heavy rain again contributing factors.......luckily I ended up in mud on the footpath side of the round about before gaining control and taking it back onto the road once again.
My new Kawasaki Vulcan and my combined weight is in excess of 420kg. This is nearly 3 times the weight of my very first bike and believe me when I say it takes a heck of a lot longer time to pull up safely both in the dry and wet.
The last incident involved uneven road surface, on the way to the Phillip Island Super TT GP, low spots in the road had filled with water (heavy rain conditions.
My younger brother was riding behind me when my rear tyre slid from side to side like I was doing an uncontrollable fishtail. I eventually brought it under control by releasing the accelerator and gently applying the rear and then front brakes in sequence.
My brother said that he felt as the blood rush into his legs as he turned white. This ride was shortly after he had just come out of hospital after a single motorcycle accident where he had a punctured lung and several other serious injuries, he still has the scars to remind him of that day. I consider all of us to be lucky riders.
I feel that the road has become a much more dangerous place for riders. It's fact that most people have both partners working.
They are both working longer hours to make ends meet sometimes up to 12 hours or more a day. And amongst all of this chaos are the ever aware motorcycle rider, unaware that the people who are driving today are at least 5 times less patient that the people who were on the road 10 years ago, it's not that hard to see why more experienced motorcyclists are being injured and or killed.
Leave 10 to 30 minutes earlier that you normally would if taking your bike during rain.
Check the weather forecasts on the news and get up 30 minutes earlier than you normally would you'll have a much more relaxing journey to work.
If you are running late for anything, PLEASE phone ahead and let them know that you will be 15 - 30 minutes late (I am sure that your friends/family/employer/or biker mates would rather see you ARRIVE ALIVE than not at all!)
Weigh up your options when you travel and give yourself additional stopping distance and additional time both in wet and dry conditions especially when you are riding a heavier bike or someone else's bike.
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It pays to practise emergency riding techniques
By David Brain of Northcote
Most licence courses these days teach you the basics behind riding techniques you would use in the event of an emergency, such as braking and swerving or counter steering. Knowing the correct way of executing these manoeuvres is essential for all riders.
Not only is the theory behind these skills important, riders must also know when each manoeuvre should be used. This is just as important as being good at the individual skill, because a moment’s hesitation in an emergency situation can be fatal.
A tip I would give to all riders is to practise emergency braking and counter-steering regularly. You don’t have to go out of your way to practise these skills, but if you are riding home late at night with no cars on the road, why not simply pick a spot on the road to dodge around, or brake before.
[Ed's note: Preferably practise these skills under supervision at a training facility.]
These skills need to be practised from different speeds as well, because they may be needed at any time whether it be a residential area or going down the Hume. So try a slow counter-steer then work your way up. Try one at 5-10 k/ph faster each time, until you are comfortable that you would be able to do this at high speed if need be. The same goes for emergency braking, but don't brake so suddenly that you lock the front wheel up.
Of course, you would have to make sure there was enough room to do this, and that your sudden movement is safe for other road users (ie. there is no one around).
If you practise these skills enough, they will come naturally when you really need them. It could save your life, or at least your fairings!
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Never Ridden In The Rain
By Leigh Knight of Frankston
Okay, so my 12 months of puttering around on the 250 are up. As I scan the Trading Post for something that's a little less Jetsons and a little more Flash Gordon, I keep seeing the phrase "never ridden in the rain". This is a real concern.
If you live in Melbourne there is a good chance that sooner than later you will get caught in the rain. When that happens, how will you know how to respond? The same traffic situations arise whether it's wet or dry.
Cars will still cut you off, open their doors, pull out without looking and all the other things they do that tighten your grip on the seat. If you have only had dry road emergency experiences, you will soon find yourself lying beside your bike admiring the rainclouds above.
In the past 12 months, as a returnee on my Ps, I have added 15,000km to my little Suzuki. Obviously, not all of these have been perfect-day-for-a-ride events.
Before I got to commuting seriously (180km each week). I went out on wet weekends, found a new housing estate where the roads had been paved and discovered how both the bike and I reacted in the wet under brakes, in a turn, even accelerating.
I don't think I have been nominated for World's Best Rider, but I understand the signs the bike is giving me from a wet road and can compensate for it before something happens.
It all comes down to practice. The more time you spend on your bike, the less likely you are going to be lying beside it watching clouds.
